There are a lot of unmarked roads in Mexico’s Baja California Sur. You see them from the smooth highway that connects the sleepy town of Todos Santos to the glossy resorts of Los Cabos an hour south, their dusty trails carving mysterious paths through fields dotted with tall saguaro cacti. They look a little intimidating, but as one local told me during a recent visit, “when you see a dirt road in Baja, you should take it. There’s always something interesting at the other end.”